The Eiffel Tower
My feet hurt.
I keep shifting my weight from one foot to the other, juggling the pain rather than confronting it evenly. I count down stations to Bir-Hakeim with an urgency that betrays my exhaustion. I can spot the tower from the gaps in the compartment. I should be more excited.
I don’t hate it.
I like the way it pops up everywhere, and in some silhouettes and landscapes, I find it very impressive. But sitting here on a bench at the base of the hulking tower, bits of scaffolding obstructing my view, I am intrigued more by the gun toting military officers, the knick-knacks on sale, and the one person running around in a gorilla suit; it can’t be an easy job that.
There’s a white-blue-red plastic bird in particular that catches my eye. As Vivek heads off to get us some water, I wait, camera in position, for the vendor to flip the bird in the air. It’s a very warm day. The back of my dress clings to me and my hands feel clammy. He flip it up and I click, click, click.
People walking towards the tower, walk with their heads tilted up. Those walking away from it walk side by side peering into their camera screens, going through the set. As yet another vendor tries to sell us an Eiffel Tower key chain in Hindi – there’s a large contingent from the sub-continent present here – we shake our heads, get up and head to the other side, across the bridge to the Trocadéro.
It’s our last evening in Paris.
It’s 10:00 pm. The evening is bright, the cafes are full and the air smells of crepes and tobacco. We survey the stalls along the road, making mental notes for where to stop on our way back.
From the outside the Montparnasse Tower is forgettable and we have a little trouble finding the entrance. But once we get to the terrace all doubts melt away.
The sky is a pretty yellow-pink-purple. The city lights haven’t all come on yet but already there’s a line forming along the terrace wall. Cameras are posed on the ledge and tripods are set up.
Vivek holds down a great spot right in the middle.
I walk along the walls taking in the various landmarks we’ve ticked off the list over the last few days in one swooping glance – that’s where we had the to-die-for macaroons; that’s where we had that delicious white wine; that’s where I found the metallic Eiffel Tower bookmark.
In the bare centre, a girl in a bohemian pink dress sits cross-legged with a sketch book. She doesn’t draw the views, but the people who’ve come here for the view. She’s not very good. In a corner an older man teaches his younger companions the finer aspects of photography. He directs them around, correcting them and encouraging them before the big show.
Everyone waits for darkness.
When it comes, it doesn’t disappoint. In a space of minutes Paris is lit up and even more spectacular. At sharp 11, a collective “Ooh!” is heard across the terrace as the Eiffel puts on a bright, bright show. “Sophie, forget the camera and experience the moment!” a mother advises her daughter. “I will.”
The camera(s) continues clicking.
Pictures are taken. Smiles are exchanged. Words are whispered. Hands are held. All the Paris/Eiffel Tower clichés come true on the top of Tour Montparnasse under the spell of darkness.